From #madaboutcork to Madly In Love With Cork

Your perfect day in Cork should probably start and end like mine. I hope you are as lucky as I am with the weather. The sun is out and it’s already autumn. But even when it’s cloudy and kind of miserable, Cork is enjoyable with many places to fall in love with indoors.

Cork Harbour
Port of Cork

 

Nash 19

Have your breakfast diner-style at the self service place Nash 19. It’s at Princess Str. and opens up from a self-service counter to a nice gallery space for Irish artists with spacious seating. I decided to go with porridge, fresh fruit, almonds and maple sirup. The cappuccino was OK, not a barista-style one but still very good. Plus, you could get endless refills on the filter coffee. I enjoyed the free space, free wifi and nice staff.

Nash 19
A wonderful morning starts with a wonderful breakfast

Since Nash 19 is right in town, you should wander around there. I really love the little paths through the town where I easily get lost. A river here, a canal there. There is always something to explore. Cork is a big, big building site at the moment. It will change a lot in the next couple of years into a more modern and driven riverside town with its harbor and closeness to the sea. But Ireland’s south will – in my opinion – never get into this hush-rush like Dublin. It’s laid back and easy going.

Cork Harbour
Cork Harbour and it’s blue sky and blue river Lee

So are all its students. University College Cork just a little out of the historical town center is a space to lean back and enjoy. On days like these students are gathering in the sunny spots outside and on the grass, having coffee and sandwiches, chatting away. I walked past them and visited:

Lewis Glucksman Gallery

The gallery was founded in 2004. Founding donor, philanthropist and financier Lewis Glucksman gave the gallery its name. After winning prices for its outstanding architecture it is also a hub for interesting exhibitions especially the themed ones are extremely challenging. I happened to be allowed to touch objects of art in the exhibition Please Touch. The second show I walked through is mainly connected with the Please Touch one due to prepared stations where you could also touch facsimile of the abstract art works. Can Josef and Anni Albers‘ artworks be experienced without using our eyes?

University College Cork
I was able to feel and to touch art work in the ‘Please Touch’ exhibition. A very new way to walk through a gallery.
Anni and Josef Albers exhibit
The Anni and Josef Albers exhibition offers a lot of playful ways to feel and to ‘see’ through your hands.

 

Another part of the gallery I didn’t use my eyes for was the cafe. It’s simply delicious and has many vegetarian and vegan options. I went for a green tea kombucha and a peanut butter sponge cake.

Opening Hours

10am – 5pm, Tuesday – Saturday

2pm – 5pm, Sundays

Closed Mondays

Blackrock Castle

A heck of a walk! Black Rock Castle and Observatory is slightly outside Cork city centre but totally walkable. If you decide to walk next to river Lee you are surrounded of beautiful old (I think) pine trees planted like an alley. When you reach Blackrock you could either stop at the Natural Bakery and have some kind of treat or head on to the castle which is about 600m from Blackrock square. You pass gorgeous villas and bay houses,… I might have had a peek into one or two.

View to Blackrock Castle
Blackrock Castle approaching

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Blackrock Castle itself is situated on a rock leaning into the river and a beautiful courtyard inside. You can have some lunch here at the cafe. It’s busy and buzzy but still nice. Visit the castle with one of the two tours or even both of them. I ran out of time and had to choose one tour and went for the observation tour. After you have a look around the different topics from questions like how did the human species evolve? to what kind of galaxies to we know of? the observatory offers a very broad and interesting view of modern astronomy and space science. But there is also a space to learn about the history of Blackrock Castle and why it was important. For the observation tour the tour guide asks you to enter a blow-up dome in one of the towers of the castle, to sit back and relax. For around 30 minutes you learn about the Northern hemisphere and its sky, its stars and planets and what you will be able to see the night you visit. I learned much about the planets visible – Jupiter, Mars and Saturn – as well as some galaxies far, far away. I love the way you get detailed information about star signs and constellations, how they were created in Ancient Greece and why their called Cassiopeia or Orion. I definitely need to hang out more in the country to find those constellations more easily.

Blackrock Castle & Observatory
A little bit of science, please

The second tour is a historical tour around the castle including a visit of the terrace to overlook river Lee.

Opening Hours

daily 10am – 5pm

last admission 4pm

Ichigo Ichie

Ichigo Ichie is an experience you will not forget easily. The fine Japanese dining restaurant just achieved its first Michelin star in 2018 (Congrats!) and Ichigo Ichie’s chef Takashi Miyazaki is the most laid back haute cuisine chef I have ever met. I went for a space at the bar to watch him plate and was absolutely delighted to make conversation with him throughout the dinner.

Ichigo Ichie
Welcome to Ichigo Ichie

I decided to get a 6 course menu rather than 12 course. Even though the portions are small, I usually cannot take more than 6. It was plenty and it was absolutely gorgeous. The menu focuses on local fish and seafood, trying to get ever bit as fresh as possible. I had oysters from Galway, since they were in season. Aged fish with innovative toppings (like truffle) and Miyazaki’s dashi were my favorites. But see yourself and be convinced why to make your way to Cork:

Ichigo Ichie
One hell of a starter…
Ichigo Ichie
Sashimi and Sushi
Ichigo Ichie
Steamed egg in dashi and salmon with ginkgo nut
Ichigo Ichie
Autumny chocolate mousse with pumpkin

 

I’m not #MadAboutCork which was their hashtag to apply for the cultural capital 2020 but madly in love with the town.

How to get to Cork

Cork is easily reachable via train or bus from Dublin and Limerick. The best way to pre-book tickets is to look at Irishrail or Buseireann or Dublincoach.

More pictures

Cork 2018

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Conor

How to be friends with an artist?

You might have asked you several times how to start being friends with people in creative industries or even better, becoming a pal of someone who actually works as an artist. I do not want to be rude, but no, that is not how you make friends. Since working at a museum which includes a residency program I was lucky enough to organize monthly get-togethers with artists from all over the world in different genres (architecture, music, visual art, literature). Through the AIR Artist In Residence program I have met around fifty artists in the last two years who I got a long with well, did not have a chance to talk any further or who just passed by my time schedule.

Conor O’Grady

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I met Conor through the residency program in November 2017. We only had very little time because he stayed for one month only, it was Christmas time and we were both really busy. From what I have observed back then was, that Conor watches and analyses his surroundings very thoroughly. He as a great sense of observation, is sensitive and interested in topics others would describe as taboo. In his daily practice observation is a relevant, if not the most important part,

“For me the art has to be a catalyst for other things, and the work you make has to be a catalyst for debate or discussion, something further. My real drive when I’m making work is to deal with themes like sexism, homophobia, otherness, and being able to describe how otherness – anything but the norm – feels …” Mayo News, 2015

You always meet twice…

I was delighted when I contacted Conor to meet up again in Ireland. I visited his studio where we talked about current issues like the Repeal the 8th referendum as well as the conflict with Northern Ireland in connection with his current home base in County Donegal.

Observing others in their otherness with sensitivity and calmness is probably what amazed me the most. We took the chance and went to visit several places in Donegal. Letterkenny was probably the most striking ones. As if you could feel the tension between two magnetic poles. Interestingly the Donegal Regional Cultural Centre hosts a variety of art exhibitions, focusing on photography, in a somewhat stunning architecture. The building is designed by local architects MacGabhann which shows how broad the Northern parts of the republic of Ireland are. What I liked the most about it was that Conor and I got a chance to see the already closed exhibition about the border.

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What is up there? A lot of information about the people who live here or have something to say… © Lucie Taeubler

Wherever I went with Conor, he was looking for traces of humans on walls, streets, cobblestones or bridges. Stickers, graffiti, street art or other material coming from passing by human beings. He even found a conversation between two teenagers in a playground slide (at least he assumed so). Now, Conor has not only opened my eyes to look at trashy stuff on walls – tags or badges – he inhabits outdoor spaces himself through interventions. I am really looking forward to his exhibition with the Westport Custom House Studios and more to come.

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I found this treasure in Cork. © Lucie Taeubler

Follow Conor’s blog to learn more about his stories, thoughts and beautiful captures of reality.

In Limerick For EVA International

It would be weird for me not to write about visual art. I have been working for artists, with artists, in galleries and museum spaces for almost ten years and have usually enjoyed myself. During my bus-roadtrip through Ireland I decided to go further South on the Wild Atlantic Way to visit a town called Limerick.

Limerick as a town has never been bright and shiny to me. Whenever I was there before, I tried to stay inside due to heavy rain or the chills outside temperatures gave me. This time, I visited Limerick with summery vibes and for a particular reason: EVA International!

EVA International takes place every other year and shows contemporary art in various venues. The venues around Limerick are special. Even the usual gallery space at Limerick City Gallery of Art showed off with some amazing work. I really appreciated Patricia Belli‘s monstrous chandeliers. I love their shades when hanging from the ceiling. I was struck by her work at the art gallery at first but the huge factory space at the former Condensed Milk Factory (and then Toffee factory) across river Shannon was another highlight for me.

#IHaveThisThingWithShades

An important impact on the Repeal the 8th referendum (May 25, 2018 – YES!) had the so-called Artists’ Campaign to Repeal the Eigth Amendment which also led to a procession for the opening of EVA International. The banners created and designed by the artists are show pieces in the factory.

Artists' Campaign to Repeal the Eighth Amendment

Sustainable and renewable energy happens to be always on my mind and so far I have no clue how we get out of this story. We need energy. We are dependent on it. Besides, power plants as well as solar plants have structured our environment and are designed to stick around for long. Artist John Gerrad took a very close look at solar plants. Whichever work I have looked at always leaves me with questions. I find it very hard to distinguish between what is real and what is animated… John Gerrard’s Western Flag was part of donaufestival Krems (where I come from!). Small world.

EVA International is on show until July 8. Try to get out there and see it, it is so worth the travel.

In connection with the art fair I decided to join a group of people at Ormston House, a cultural resource center. Words are their weapons at Stanzas which is a monthly get together of poets, writers and authors to perform in public. In addition to the referendum which took place that day, their theme was Vox Populi . I was invited to listen to some great poems about democracy, youth, first world problems and why to use the word shit more often to release stress. Watch my Instagram stories to know what I am up to next, plus, there are Co. Limerick Highlights to catch up with!

Details for EVA International

Limerick City Gallery of Art,
Pery Square
Limerick City, V94 E67F
Ireland

Details for Ormston House

Cultural Resource Centre
9-10 Patrick Street
Limerick City, V94 V089
Ireland

Opening hours
Wednesday-Saturday, 12-6pm

This article is not an advertisement, I have not been invited of any of the named corporates.